The Goal:
To build my first durable, but light weight, cross country bicycle wheel.
The Challenge:
Trying to build a wheel that balances my biggest concerns and likely the concerns of most people building their own wheel:
2) Weight
3) Price Point
The Hub:
The hub is likely where the biggest balance of the three points needs to happen. There are hubs on the market that are extremely light weight, such as American Classic, but their durability is a bit questionable (according to reviews I've read). Another option is to go with a high end hub like Chris King. I've heard great things about the durability of this hub, but their price will hit the checkbook hard. The other option is to go with the middle of the road such as a Shimano XT, which is a pretty durable hub that you can afford, but you pay for it in the weight.
There was one more variable I had to keep in mind. This is my first wheel build. I didn't want to buy a cheap hub that I wouldn't train or race on, but I didn't want to break the bank buying a hub knowing that I'm still learning how to build wheels.
So ultimately I ended up purchasing the Shimano XT hub with large flange. From experience I know this to be a durable hub that is cheap. I'd later use some of the money I saved on this hub to purchase a better rim, which will offset some of the weight concern.
The Spokes:
Spokes come in an array of lengths, sizes, and colors. Plus, you can get bladed, double butted, triple butted, or straight gauge. Going strictly from what I've read in books and online I decided the only types I'd be interested in are the double butted or the straight gauge.
A straight gauge is thought to help eliminate spoke twist while building your wheel. For those who don't know what spoke twist is; I plan to write something about it soon. Although straight gauge spokes are said to help eliminate spoke twist, they tend to be a bit more difficult when it comes to tensioning the wheel. This is based of what I've heard and read and I'm not speaking from experience on this topic.
Given my knowledge base I opted for a double butted spoke. A double butted spoke starts wide at the hub, gets thin in the middle, and then gets wide again at the rim. Double butted spokes do come with different buttes with the main difference being weight. Basically the difference is where the butte starts on the spoke. The more light weight spokes accomplish this by having a shorter butte. The weight difference is nominal when compared to the price difference and I opted for the larger buttes on my double butted spokes.
The Rim:
I'm still a bit old school when it comes to wheels and I'm still riding tubes even though the market trend is to ride tubeless. I had taken a hit to the weight when I opted to build to a Shimano XT hub. However, I saved a bundle of money which I was prepared to spend on a nicer, light weight rim. I wanted something that would have eyelets, which produce a nominal weight addition, but make it easier for beginner wheel builders like me to set the spokes angles, while offering a bit stronger spoke hole.
I selected the Mavic XC 717 DISC rim. This is a light weight rim weighing in at 395 grams and is said to be a great sturdy rim for amateur racers and cross country riders a like. The price is a bit higher than I wanted to spend, but I've been riding Mavic rims for years and know them to be strong, durable rims, which ultimately pay for themselves over time.
The Conclusion:
I've picked the parts I needed to build my bicycle wheel. In all the price was below what I would have paid for a pre-built wheel, the durability should allow for years of riding, and the weight should come in at a healthy 830 grams. This isn't the lightest wheel on the market, but it isn't a tank either.
